pro-oiler

At last I took the weekend to install the pro-oiler system bought in the summer of 2009. I was lazy long enough. Not driven by gravity, Pro-oiler is precise, distance based, user configurable chain lubrication system. The system itself was fairly straight forward but it was tricky find room and proper location to install the components on my VFR. As with any installations, it pays to test every step of the way. Avoid anchoring anything till the end. I first tapped onto the brake light for positive and ground, and changed my mind the next day (read below). Before putting back the cover, I tested the speed sensor but got no signal. And it turned out the connector didn't pierce through the wire coating.
It's a simple system but since the components work at different parts of the bike, it takes time to do a good job. 2 day worth of time. Here were the steps I took.

1. Reservoir. VFR ABS, unfortunately, doesn't have a lot of room under the seat. The only 2 places that could fit were the 2 sides near the rear cross member. I picked the right side merely because the bottle wouldn't tilt as much when the bike is on the side stand.

2. Controller. To avoid EMI, I routed the controller wire to the right, along the frame. It was much easier to do so with the gas tank lifted. The wire was just long enough to end near the rear brake reservoir.

3. Junction box. That was where my junction was, at the tiny place next to the rear brake reservoir.

4. Power wire. For power, I tapped on the brake light wire. At first I used both the positive and ground from the brake light connector, but the bolt near the junction box offered a much closer place for ground. It's cleaner, IMO, to have only 1 wire run all the way to the back. This was a good point to hook up the controller and junction box for power test. If by a slim chance one of them was defective, I would find out now.

5. Speed sensor. My VFR has an electronic speed sensor. The back wheel sensor has 2 wires (black and white) run to the connector below the rear brake reservoir. I crimped a connector on the white wire and led it back to the junction box, conveniently just a few inches above. Then did the speed read test with the controller by hand turning the rear wheel.

6. Pump. Next was the pump. I extended the short pump wires to run from the left side of the bike to the junction box, and hooked up the leads from the reservoir to the pump and to the nozzle. So far, I only zip tied the controller wire in the front half of the bike (so I can lower the gas tank) but not the lead, pump or the back wires.

7. With gear oil filled half in the reservoir and the sprocket teeth cleaned, it was time to prime the pump till oil came out at the nozzle. I was looking for leaks. Hand rotating the wheel to ensure nozzle wasn't obstructing in any way. After everything worked, I zip tied down everything.

8. Entered the correction factor and the calibration table, I test rode in the parking lot and stopped to look for  leaks as well as shiny oil on the sprocket and chain. Whoala! That was it!
Though it doesn't change the appearance of the bike, it certainly will free me from lubricating and cleaning the chain every now and then. Well worth the cost and time.
Correction factor 60. Table 17.